Genuine leather or faux leather: how to tell them apart and what to choose for shoes
Faux leather, often sold as “eco leather” or “vegan leather”, is not a kind of leather but a fabric with a polymer coating. Here is how to tell it apart from genuine leather on a shoe, how they differ in wear, and when each makes sense — with Babylon models as examples.
In short
Genuine leather is an animal hide tanned with its natural fibrous structure intact; faux leather is a fabric base coated with polyurethane or PVC. You can tell them apart by the cut edge, the reverse side, the grain pattern and the label. Babylon, a Ukrainian footwear manufacturer with its own factory in Kharkiv, makes most models from genuine leather, nubuck and suede and states clearly in the composition where faux leather is used.
What is genuine leather and what is faux leather?
Genuine leather is an animal hide tanned so that it does not rot, with its natural fibrous structure preserved. Faux leather — sold as “eco leather”, “vegan leather” or “PU leather” — is a fabric base coated with polyurethane (PU) or PVC and embossed to look like leather. They are fundamentally different materials, even if they look alike in photos.
The European standard EN 15987 defines leather as hide or skin “with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible”. Under EU footwear labelling rules, synthetic materials cannot be marked as leather. Reference sources and industry bodies describe “eco” and “vegan” leathers as synthetic coated fabrics.
Babylon is a Ukrainian footwear manufacturer with its own factory in Kharkiv, producing since 1997; its shoes are handmade. Most Babylon models are made of genuine leather, nubuck, suede or sheepskin, and where faux leather is used, the composition says so.
How do you tell genuine leather from faux leather?
The quickest check is a cut edge. Genuine leather is fibrous there, like dense felt or suede; faux leather shows two layers — a smooth film and fabric underneath. Then check the reverse side, the grain and the label.
- Cut edge. Look at the edge of the tongue, collar or a folded seam. Fibres mean genuine leather; fabric under a film means faux.
- Reverse side. On unlined parts, the back of genuine leather is fuzzy like suede. Faux leather has knit or woven fabric.
- Pores and grain. Real leather has pores of different sizes, small creases and natural marks; faux embossing repeats like wallpaper.
- Label. EU Directive 94/11/EC requires pictograms for the upper, the lining and sock, and the outsole: “leather” (a stretched-hide outline), “coated leather”, “textile” and “other materials” (a diamond). Faux leather counts as “other materials”.
Which is better for shoes?
For everyday shoes worn all day over several seasons, genuine leather is the more practical choice: it lets air through and lasts for years. Faux leather is cheaper and easier to maintain, but its coating can wear off.
| Criterion | Genuine leather | Faux leather (PU/PVC) |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Tanned hide with a fibrous structure | Fabric with a polymer coating |
| Breathability | Lets air through | From moderate (porous PU) to almost none (PVC) |
| Durability | Lasts for years, develops a patina | Surface may rub off or peel |
| Care | Cream, waterproofing, damp cloth | Damp cloth, no abrasives |
| Price | Higher | Lower |
| Babylon example | Vital-11, Flex-11, Space-90 | Perle-11 |
When is faux leather a reasonable choice?
Faux leather makes sense for shoes worn occasionally or for a short time: party flats, single-season shoes, patent-look styles. It also suits people who avoid animal-derived materials for ethical reasons.
At Babylon, an example is the women's Perle-11 ballet flats: black crinkled patent-look eco-leather, a soft insole and an elastic strap across the instep. The product page states this openly and gives care advice specific to eco-leather.
What to avoid is faux leather sold as genuine, and shoes with no composition listed at all.
Why the inside matters: lining and insole
Even if the upper is genuine leather, your foot touches the lining and insole. They decide whether your feet stay dry and comfortable all day, so check what the composition says about the inside of a closed shoe.
- Men's sneakers Vital-11 — genuine leather upper, lining of breathable Italian Respira leather, foam rubber insole covered with Respira leather.
- Women's sneakers Space-90 — 100 % genuine leather upper, genuine leather lining, flexible rubber sole.
- Men's loafers Flex-11 — genuine leather inside and out, soft leather insole.
The Respira leather lining lets air through, so your feet can breathe and nothing rubs or tears inside — that's what we write on our product pages.
Which Babylon models are made of genuine leather?
Most Babylon sneakers, loafers, boots and sheepskin boots are made of genuine leather, nubuck, suede or sheepskin; the material of the upper, lining and sole is listed on every product page.
- Men's sneakers Vital-11 — genuine leather, Respira lining, TPR sole.
- Men's loafers Flex-11 — black genuine leather, leather lining.
- Women's sneakers Space-90 — 100 % genuine leather, leather lining.
- Women's ballet flats Perle-11 — faux leather, soft insole, elastic strap.
LeatherMen's leather sneakers Vital-11Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; insole: foam rubber covered with Respira leather; sole: TPE (ther…€95View 
LeatherMen's leather loafers Flex-11Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; sole: lightweight and hard-wearing€95View 
LeatherWomen's sneakers in combination leather Space-90Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; sole: flexible€95View 
LeatherWomen's faux leather ballet flats Perle-11Insole: soft; colour: black; fastening: elastic band€53 €66View
Leather sneakers are collected in the men's sneakers and women's sneakers categories.
Are nubuck, suede and sheepskin genuine leather too?
Yes. Nubuck, suede and sheepskin are types of genuine leather with different surface finishing. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side, suede has its nap raised on the flesh side, and sheepskin is tanned with the wool on. So in Babylon compositions you will see “genuine leather”, “natural nubuck” and “double-face sheepskin” — all natural materials. For sheepskin specifically, see “Genuine sheepskin boots: how to spot a fake”.
Synthetic look-alikes exist here too, such as microfibre “faux suede” or “eco fur”. The rule is the same: check the base of the material and read the composition.
How do I care for genuine and faux leather?
Wipe smooth genuine leather with a damp cloth, nourish it with leather cream so it does not dry out or crack, and protect it with a water-repellent product. Faux leather only needs a soft damp cloth and mild products without harsh chemicals. Dry both naturally, away from radiators and direct sun.
How do I order Babylon leather shoes from abroad?
Babylon ships worldwide for free from Kharkiv, Ukraine; delivery takes about 14–20 days depending on the country, and local import duties, if any, are paid by the recipient. International returns and exchanges are accepted within 30 days of delivery, and every pair has a 30-day warranty. Almost every model is made on its own last, so check the size table on the product page — see “How to measure your foot at home”.
Browse men's sneakers and women's sneakers in genuine leather.
FAQ
What is eco leather?
“Eco leather” is a trade name for artificial leather: a fabric base coated with polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The word “eco” does not mean the material is natural or certified as environmentally friendly. Under EU footwear labelling rules such a material cannot be marked as leather; it falls under “other materials”.
How can I tell genuine leather from faux leather on shoes?
Look at a cut edge: genuine leather is fibrous, while faux leather shows a fabric base under a smooth film. Pores on real leather are irregular and never repeat; embossing on faux leather is uniform. The most reliable check is the composition: Babylon product pages say “genuine leather” or “eco-leather” explicitly.
Which is better for shoes: genuine or faux leather?
For everyday shoes worn all day over several seasons, genuine leather is the more practical choice: it lets air through and lasts for years. Faux leather is cheaper and easier to wipe clean, but its coating can wear off over time. It makes sense for occasional wear, such as Babylon's Perle-11 ballet flats.
Does faux leather breathe?
It depends on the construction. Porous PU on a microfibre base lets some air through, while a dense PVC coating hardly does. Genuine leather is breathable thanks to its fibrous structure. That is why the lining matters in closed shoes too: Babylon's Vital-11 sneakers have a lining of breathable Respira leather.
Does Babylon use faux leather?
Rarely, and when it does, the composition says so. For example, the black Perle-11 ballet flats are made of eco-leather. Most Babylon sneakers, loafers, boots and sheepskin boots are made of genuine leather, nubuck, suede or sheepskin, often with a genuine leather lining.
How does international delivery and return work?
Babylon ships worldwide for free from Kharkiv, Ukraine; delivery usually takes 14–20 days depending on the country, and import duties, if any, are paid by the recipient. International orders can be returned or exchanged within 30 days of delivery, and every pair has a 30-day warranty.
Head of production technology at Babylon's own factory in Kharkiv, Ukraine. The factory employs 25 craftspeople and 2 technologists; leather and fur come from Spain and Turkey, soles are made to order, and every pair is made by hand. All articles by this author
Sources and notes
- Composition and care: Babylon product pages Vital-11, Flex-11, Space-90, Perle-11 (as of 6 October 2026).
- Definition of leather: EN 15987:2015 “Leather — Terminology — Key definitions for the leather trade”.
- EU footwear material labelling: Directive 94/11/EC.
- Composition, properties and names of artificial leather: “Artificial leather” and “Leather”, Wikipedia.
- “Vegan leather” as a marketing term: Leather Naturally, FAQs (industry association).
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