Nubuck or suede: how they differ and which to choose for sneakers
Nubuck and suede feel alike, but they wear differently. Here is how the two materials differ, which is more practical for everyday wear and which Babylon sneakers are made of each. Step-by-step care is in a separate guide, “How to clean nubuck and suede sneakers”.
In short
Nubuck is genuine leather buffed on the outer (grain) side: the nap is short, the material is denser and holds its shape better. Suede has the nap raised on the inner side: it is softer and lighter, with a longer nap. Nubuck is the more practical choice for everyday sneakers; suede suits dry weather and summer styles. Both are cleaned with a dry brush, protected with a water-repellent spray and dried only at room temperature.
What is the difference between nubuck and suede?
Both are genuine leather with a napped surface, but the nap is raised on different sides of the hide. Nubuck is buffed on the outer (grain) side, suede on the inner side. This is what makes them differ in strength, softness and care.
Nubuck is made from the grain side of the hide: the top layer is buffed with a fine abrasive until a short, velvety nap appears. The dense grain structure underneath stays intact, so nubuck is stronger, stretches less and keeps the shape of the toe and heel longer.
Suede is leather with the nap raised on the inner (flesh) side — the side that faced the animal's body. It is softer, lighter and more pliable, with a longer nap that visibly changes shade when you brush your hand across it.
Babylon, a Ukrainian footwear maker from Kharkiv, uses both: nubuck for everyday and mid-season sneakers, suede for light summer pairs where softness and breathability matter.
Nubuck
SuedeWhich is more practical for everyday sneakers?
For everyday wear in the city, nubuck is the more practical choice: it is denser, handles abrasion better and stretches less. Suede wins on softness and weight, but it picks up dust faster and needs more care in wet weather.
| Feature | Nubuck | Suede |
|---|---|---|
| Where the nap comes from | Grain (outer) side, buffed | Flesh (inner) side |
| Feel | Short, even, velvety | Longer, softer, shifts shade |
| Shape and density | Denser, holds its shape well | Softer, lighter, more pliable |
| Water | Darkens; may stain without a protector | Same, and the nap mats down |
| When to wear | Spring to autumn, every day | Dry weather, summer |
| Care | Dry brush, eraser, nubuck spray | Suede brush, eraser, spray |
| Babylon examples | DRIFT-14, Velour-13 | Bourbon-24, Mirelle-19 |
How can you tell nubuck from suede?
The easiest test is to run a finger across the surface. On nubuck the mark is barely visible and the nap is short, like peach skin. On suede your finger leaves a clear stripe of a different shade, and the nap is longer and softer.
- Touch. Nubuck feels dense and dry; suede feels soft and supple.
- Finger mark. It is more visible on suede because the long nap lies the other way.
- Product details. On babylon.net.ua the upper material is listed in the “Composition” section of every model — the most reliable clue.
Which Babylon sneakers are made of nubuck, and which of suede?
Babylon makes sneakers in both materials. Nubuck is used for the men's DRIFT-14 and the women's high-top Velour-13; suede for the men's Bourbon-24 and the women's summer Mirelle-19. All of them are made in Kharkiv.
NubuckMen's nubuck sneakers DRIFT-14Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; last: anatomical; laces: rubber€95View 
NubuckWomen's high-top nubuck sneakers Velour-13Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; sole: rubber; sizes: 36–41€105View 
SuedeMen's suede sneakers Bourbon-24Lining: none; lace: elastic; sole: flexible€70 €91View
Suede + meshWomen's summer sneakers in suede and mesh Mirelle-19Lining: Respira — Italian lining leather; sole height: 5 cm; fastening: decorative back hook-and-loop strap€93View
Nubuck care in brief
Clean nubuck dry — with a soft nubuck brush or an eraser, no water. Treat the pair with a water-repellent nubuck spray before the first wear and regularly after that. This is exactly what the care notes for Babylon's nubuck models recommend.
- Protect a new pair. Apply a water-repellent nubuck spray before the first wear and let it dry completely.
- Remove dust daily. Brush with a dry nubuck brush in the direction of the nap.
- Use an eraser on marks. A nubuck eraser lifts small marks; for deeper stains use a nubuck cleaning foam or spray.
- Refresh the colour. A nubuck renovator in a matching shade restores depth of colour. Test it on a hidden spot first.
- Clean the sole separately. Wipe the rubber sole with a damp cloth without soaking the upper.
- Store them right. Somewhere dry and out of the sun, with paper or shoe trees inside so they keep their shape.
Suede care in brief
Suede needs the same kit — a brush, an eraser and a water-repellent spray — but a gentler hand, because its longer nap mats down more easily. Only clean a dry pair, with light strokes.
- Dry cleaning only. Let wet dirt dry first, then brush it off with a suede brush so it is not pushed into the nap.
- Unlined models such as Bourbon-24 need especially thorough waterproofing: moisture reaches the foot faster.
- Suede with mesh (Mirelle-19): the product notes recommend a soft brush or a damp cloth and a spray for nubuck and textiles.
- Matted nap can be lifted with a suede brush using short strokes in different directions.
For a step-by-step guide to stains, salt, drying and protection, see How to care for nubuck and suede. Sheepskin boots need different care: see How to care for sheepskin boots.
What should you do if nubuck or suede sneakers get wet?
Stuff the sneakers with dry paper, replace it as it gets damp and let the pair dry at room temperature. Once dry, brush the nap back up and re-apply the water-repellent spray.
Nubuck and suede aren't afraid of being worn. They're afraid of radiators and of water without protection.
What should you never do with nubuck and suede?
- put them in a washing machine or rinse them under the tap;
- use cream for smooth leather — it glues the nap together and leaves shiny patches;
- dry them near heat sources or in direct sunlight;
- store a damp pair in a closed box or a plastic bag.
Where can you try on Babylon nubuck and suede sneakers?
You can try Babylon sneakers on in our showrooms in Kharkiv (128 Sumska St. and 50/52 Pushkinska St.) and Kyiv (18 Pavlivska St.), or order online with worldwide delivery. International orders can be returned or exchanged within 30 days of delivery.
Made at our own factory in Kharkiv since 1997
Babylon nubuck and suede sneakers
Natural materials, handmade, genuine leather lining. The upper material is listed on every product page.
FAQ
Which is better for sneakers, nubuck or suede?
For everyday sneakers, nubuck is more practical: its nap is made by buffing the outer side of the hide, so the material is denser, holds its shape better and copes with abrasion more easily. Suede is softer and lighter and works well for summer styles and dry weather. At Babylon, DRIFT-14 and Velour-13 are made of nubuck, Bourbon-24 and Mirelle-19 of suede.
Can you wear nubuck sneakers in the rain?
In light rain, yes, if the sneakers have been treated with a water-repellent nubuck spray beforehand. Downpours and puddles do harm: nubuck darkens and may stain once it dries. If the pair gets wet, stuff it with paper, dry it at room temperature away from radiators, then brush the nap back up.
How do you clean suede sneakers at home?
With a dry suede and nubuck brush and an eraser for spot marks. Only clean dry shoes: let wet dirt dry first, then brush it off. For deeper stains there are suede cleaning foams and sprays. After cleaning, treat the surface with a water-repellent spray.
Can nubuck or suede sneakers go in the washing machine?
No. Machine washing and prolonged contact with water damage the nap and the leather: it stiffens, loses its shape and may be left with water marks. In the care notes for its models Babylon recommends dry brushing only, dedicated nubuck and suede products and natural drying.
How often should you waterproof nubuck and suede?
The first time before you wear them, then regularly and after every deep clean. In the rainy season and in winter, treat them more often. Apply the spray to a clean, dry surface and let it dry before going out. The exact frequency is given by the product maker on the packaging.
Head of production technology at Babylon's own factory in Kharkiv, Ukraine. The factory employs 25 craftspeople and 2 technologists; leather and fur come from Spain and Turkey, soles are made to order, and every pair is made by hand. All articles by this author
Sources and notes
- Composition and care notes on Babylon product pages: DRIFT-14, Velour-13, Bourbon-24, Mirelle-19.
- Delivery and returns: Payment and delivery, Return policy.
- Background on the materials: Wikipedia articles “Nubuck” and “Suede”.
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